I went to a new restaurant yesterday — called Biscuit World. Their entire menu is is made up of biscuit dishes. I guess it’s a small “chain” — there are a number of them, but this is the first in our immediate area. It originated here in West Virginia.
When I grew up in Oklahoma, biscuits were a mainstay at most meals. When I was little, I wasn’t aware of any such thing as “canned” or “frozen” biscuits — they were all homemade. I remember that one of my granddads had biscuits every morning for breakfast. My grandmother made a big pan of them every day and he usually ate them all.
Later, after I left Oklahoma and became more “worldly” I learned that biscuits were originally pretty much a southern thing.
The word biscuit comes from the Latin “biscotus,” which means twice-baked, and in medieval times probably resembled what we now call biscotti. Today, when Europeans, and especially the British, refer to biscuits, they’re talking about something much different than the little tubes of Pillsbury frozen biscuit dough you see in our food stores.
As part of their rations, soldiers in ancient Rome received biscuits and, in 1588, biscuits were introduced to Great Britain and included as part of rations for sailors in the Royal Navy. The Navy’s “biscuits” were called hardtack and were hard and flavorless, but kept well aboard their ships. For the longer sea-journeys, the biscuits (made only of flour, water, and salt) were baked four times and prepared six months in advance so they’d be sufficiently dry for the journey and wouldn’t spoil.
Later, in the “colonies,” they became a mainstay because they could be baked quickly and required few ingredients.
They apparently became popular in the Souther colonies, because successful wheat harvests gave the colonists access to fresh flour and cows and pigs supplied buttermilk and lard — that’s when biscuits gradually started to transform into something more like we know today.
Even though yeast was available to the colonists, it was expensive and was difficult to store. Baking soda and baking powder hadn’t been invented yet, so the biscuits were unleavened. To improve their texture, cooks developed a technique of beating the dough to introduce some air, which made the biscuits rise, at least a little. That was very labor intensive, so housewives usually gave that duty to slaves. In fact, if it hadn’t been for Black bakers, biscuits might not have ever become popular throughout the country.
The restaurant that I went to yesterday is a kind of upscale fast-food type of place. I was thinking that just about every fast-food chain today has a biscuit on their menu. From what I can tell, Hardee’s was the first fast-food chain to add biscuits to their menu in the 1970s. Hardee’s owner happened to eat a biscuit sandwich at a small restaurant. He was a bit skeptical, but he tested a biscuit sandwich in Virginia Beach and it was almost immediately successful. Today, biscuit breakfast sandwiches are available in just about all fast-food establishments.
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